electric scooters
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popular cheap electric scooter for sale foldable monopattino electric

At the start, it’s best to always put on a helmet if you trip, no matter how short the trip or how fast you are riding. An CPSC-certified bike helmet is the minimum, however you might want one thing extra protecting for increased speeds. Before you hop on your scooter, you should be wearing applicable gear.



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FrameHigh strength aluminum alloy 6061, surface paint
Forking forksOne forming front fork and rear fork
Electric machinery11 “72V 10000W brushless toothed high speed motor
Controller72V 70SAH*2 tube vector sinusoidal brushless controller (mini type)
Battery72V 40AH-45AH module lithium battery (Tian energy 21700)
MeterLCD speed, temperature, power display and fault display
GPSLocation and telecontrol alarm
Braking systemAfter one disc, does not contain harmful substance, in compliance with international environmental requirements
Brake handleForging brake of aluminum alloy with power breaking function
TyreZhengXin tire 11 inch
HeadlightLED lenticular bright headlights and driving lights
Maximum speed110km
Extension mileage115-120km
Motor5000watt per piece
Net weight and gross weight54kg/63kg
Product sizeL* w* h: 1300*560*1030 (mm)
Packaging sizeL* w* h: 1330*320*780 (mm)

Hold the drive pin punch with vise grip or locking pliers to maintain from unintentionally hitting your fingers. Strike it with a hammer to push the cotter bolt from the crank. Strike the dive pin punch with the hammer till it drives the cotter bolt from the crank. Place the drive pin punch in opposition to the cotter bolt once again. Apply axle grease to a new cotter bolt. Don’t heat the crank so much that it becomes pink scorching, only scorching sufficient the place you could possibly no longer touch it. Place the drive pin against the cotter bolt once once more and strike it with a hammer to remove it from the crank. Heat the crank with a propane torch as a final resort if all other options have did not remove the cotter bolt. Drill a 1/4-inch hole into the middle of the cotter bolt with a 1/4-inch metallic drill bit and a energy-drill if the drive pin fails to drive the cotter bolt from the crank.
A worn cotter may cause a unfastened crank. Strike the threaded finish of the cotter bolt as onerous as attainable with a hammer to drive it from the crank. Continue to turn the cotter pin press bolt with an adjustable wrench to push the cotter bolt from the crank. Finger tighten the press bolt clockwise on the cotter pin press until you’ll be able to now not flip it together with your fingers. Position a drive pin punch in opposition to the cotter bolt if the end is sheared off from injury or from attempting to drive it from the crank with a hammer. Position one end of the pipe where it sits over the non-threaded finish of the cotter bolt. Wedge the alternative finish of the pipe towards the ground to support the crank. Cut a short piece of steel pipe with a hacksaw to fit the space from the floor to the crank when you don’t have access to a cotter pin press.
A picture of a crank on someone’s mountain bike. The protector cap covers the hex-head bolt that holds the crank arm to the crank and retains the crank tight. Regardless of kind, check your crank every other month to keep the crank tight. When you’ve got an older, male-threaded spindle, match a metric socket and socket wrench over the bolt. Bicycles have two sorts of cranks, cotterless and cottered. Cottered cranks are sometimes discovered on older bicycles, and you’ll determine these from the cotter bolts that thread by the highest of the crank arm. Some older bicycle fashions could have a threaded dust cap, and you can take away the mud cap with a hex key. A cotterless crank has a hex bolt in the middle high of the crank arm. Replace the plastic protector cap onto the crank arm. Remove the nuts from the cotter bolts that thread by the crank with an adjustable wrench. Turn the bolt clockwise to tighten the crank.
Position the cotter pin press over the crank with the bolt attached to the cotter pin press against the non-threaded finish of the cotter bolt. When changing a couple of cotter bolt on a crank, be certain they face opposite directions, so the nuts should not on the identical side of the crank. Continue to turn the cotter pin press bolt with an adjustable wrench to push the cotter bolt into the crank. File the flat aspect of the cotter bolt with a metal file if you cannot get the cotter bolt to fit inside the crank. Finger-tighten the press bolt counterclockwise on the cotter pin press till you can no longer turn it together with your fingers. Place the nut onto the cotter and tighten it with the adjustable wrench. Use skinny wall sockets if in case you have troublesome fitting the socket over the crank bolt on older male-threaded spindles. Do not over tighten the nut, as you possibly can strip the threads on the bolt.
Use the handlebars for stability, however avoid over stressing them. Sometimes obstacles are unavoidable and you must go through or over them. This will keep you from pulling on the handlebars. Pro Tip: When accelerating laborious, plant your weight in your rear foot and use that foot to help your physique lean ahead. As you are learning methods to trip your scooter and venturing onto public roads, there are a couple of superior strategies you’ll need to have in your again pocket. Your legs needs to be providing nearly all of your stability. An important thing is to not overcorrect or swerve into another car. Practice and be assured to make fast but managed avoidance movements. If you’re riding a twin motor scooter, it may even assist keep the front wheel from losing traction whereas accelerating. At the beginning, be taught and use impediment avoidance. Always pay attention to the highway surface and remember of surrounding vehicles. Scooters all have comparatively small tires and potholes and different road debris present a hazard.
When you’ve got an emergency, you won’t be capable to react as shortly when riding like this. At very, very low speeds, you’ll actively use the handlebars to steer your scooter. When braking exhausting, bend your knees and shift your weight back over your rear leg – as if you are about to take a seat down. You’ll also have to engage your core and alter your weight to keep up balance. 8 kmh you must keep the handlebars mostly straight and rely on weight shift and leaning to maneuver and switch. The handlebars are on the top of a very long lever arm and even the very best constructed scooter isn’t designed for the rider to steadily crank on the handlebars. In the event you discover that you’re pushing or pulling really hard on the handlebars, this is not a great sign and means you need to work in your stability. When riding your scooter, use your handlebars to help you steadiness, however your toes and legs should be doing most the work.
Riding an electric scooter is less complicated than a bicycle and most people can pick it up instantly. For greater speeds or if riding on the road in visitors, you’ll want so as to add long-leg pants, gloves, lengthy-sleeved shirt, and closed-toe shoes. You too can add in much more protecting gear, including elbow and knee pads or presumably a full racing go well with. Your gear and clothes ought to all the time match the speeds and sort of trip you’re taking. Learn more in our helmet guide. This information will assist get you started and covers vital tips about how one can trip plus essentially the most neglected insights from our workforce. At the start, it’s best to always put on a helmet if you trip, no matter how short the trip or how fast you are riding. An CPSC-certified bike helmet is the minimum, however you might want one thing extra protecting for increased speeds. Before you hop on your scooter, you should be wearing applicable gear.
Avoid riding with the chain simultaneously on the most important chain ring and the biggest rear gear, and vice versa. Maintaining a fast, continuous cadence of eighty to 90 rpm can noticeably increase endurance and stamina. Trying to shift gears midclimb is tough on the drive train and may be tough to do. First, they do not anticipate gear changes forward of time. That’s great, until you come to a cease and attempt to get going again in that very same gear. If you are cruising on a flat or have a tailwind pushing you along, you could also be riding in one in every of your hardest gears. However, capitalize on flats, descents and tailwinds by shifting into harder gears. In case your cadence begins to drop for any reason, take this a sign to change to an easier gear. To make your gears give you the results you want, shift into a better gear as you approach a climb or start to fatigue. This may enable you to increase your pace whereas sustaining the same cadence and exertion stage. Doing so may cause unnecessary chain stretch and derailleur put on, not to say create an annoying, grinding sound. The second mistake is not shifting into an easier gear when approaching a cease. When you see a hill approaching and know prematurely that you’ll have to shift into a neater gear, do it earlier than you truly begin the climb. Make regaining momentum much easier by shifting down a couple of gears as you approach stops.

Most bicycles come equipped with gears to help riders sort out various terrains. The smallest rear gear is the hardest and the most important is the easiest. The chain ought to be on largest, “huge ring” throughout flats and descents, on the medium ring when riding into headwinds or on average climbs and on the smallest ring during tough ascents. For instance, a 21-velocity bike has a triple chainring within the entrance and seven rear cassette gears. Common gearing on bikes embrace 10, 18 and 21 speeds. The rear cassette features seven gears, controlled by your right handlebar shifter. The variety of gears a bike has is figured by multiplying the number of front chainrings by the number of gears in the rear cassette. The entrance chainring must be shifted first for the largest changes and the rear gear should be a secondary shift to help positive-tune resistance. When you study to grasp the gearing of a 21-velocity bike, you’ll be able to take pleasure in longer rides that depart you less tired.

Additional information

Weight65 kg
Dimensions134 × 45 × 55 cm

Product video

Product service

  • Brand: OEM/ODM/Haibadz
  • Min.Order Quantity: 1 Piece/Pieces
  • Supply Ability: 3000 Piece/Pieces per Month
  • Port: Shenzhen/GuangZhou
  • Payment Terms: T/T/,L/C,PAYPAL,D/A,D/P
  • 1piece price:1711usd per piece
  • 10piece price:1655usd per piece


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